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A Ring Setting has Two Major
Components:
The shank is the band of metal that encircles
the finger.
The head (s), which hold the gemstones in place in
ring settings
The shank may contain hollows, grooves or channels
in which other smaller gemstone can be placed. The head holding the bigger
gemstones can be prong set, bezel set, channel set, invisible set or prong
set. Small diamonds set in the ring setting can be pave set, bead set, flush
set, or cluster set.
Wedding and Engagement Ring Settings
Wedding and engagement rings are available in a wide range of setting
styles and there are many precious metals (Gold, Platinum and White Gold
being the most popular) to choose from. It is always advisable to choose
the shape and size of the diamond before choosing the ring setting
because the diamond is most expensive component of the ring and most
ring settings will only accommodate specific shapes.
Diamond Ring Setting Types
Diamond ring settings vary as much as the diamonds and many innovative
and new designs are created everyday to beat competition. The ring
setting type is as important as a diamond as it would decide the final
appearance of a diamond as a jewel. The variety and quality of ring
settings varies from jeweler to jeweler. If one seeks the best or wants
something different, he/she needs to search more than one jeweler and
also see the available variety on the online jewelry websites.
Prong Set Ring Setting
A Prong setting is the most common method for holding a solitaire
diamond in a ring setting. It emphasizes the diamond rather than the
metal holding it. Prongs are the little metal claws that bend over the
edge of the gemstone to hold it securely in place. Prong setting is
flexible in terms of diamond’s shape and is relatively easy to adjust to
the exact size of an individual stone, independently of its size. There
might be three, four, five, six or even as many as twelve prongs
depending on the shape of the diamond. On diamonds with points like
marquise, pear or princess cuts, the prongs are often fashioned into a
specialized v-shaped prong for extra protection.
The prongs
can come from a common point on the shank as in the classic Tiffany
style head, or they can come from a basket. With the basket style, the
prongs can be slightly smaller in size because they are supported by a
basket framework. In the Tiffany style the individual prongs are only
supported at their common base. A basket style also allows the diamond
to be set lower since the prongs can come up straight to the diamonds
girdle. The Tiffany style needs to set the diamond slightly higher to
allow enough spread in the head to accommodate the size of the diamond.
There are many varieties available for prong settings in designer rings.
The
Bar Setting
The Bar setting is very commonly used in anniversary and wedding bands,
and can also be seen in bracelets and necklaces. Here metal bars rise to
the top level of the diamonds and are visible between the stones. These
bars have a channel that the girdle fits in and the bottom of the
diamond fits in a snug base for each stone.
Bezel Set Ring Settings
Bezel set is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond.
This is known to be an ancient setting technique but is used widely to
this day. This type of setting is more popular in men’s jewelry and
requires more labor than the prong setting since it must be fashioned to
exactly fit the size and shape of the diamond. The inside dimension of
the bezel shape must conform to the outside dimension of the diamond and
be slightly wider. A seat is cut into the bezel and the diamond is set
into this seat. The top of the bezel is then carefully hammered over the
diamond such that it covers about 10% of the diamond.
The
traditional bezel, also known as a solid bezel or full bezel, has the
collar go completely around the diamond. A new variation of the bezel is
known as the half bezel. Here the bezel is split into two sections, each
covering just a part of the diamond. The bezel or half bezel can be
excellent choices for diamonds that consists of inclusions visible from
their side. Bezel can conceal inclusions that would otherwise make the
diamond look inferior in quality.
Gypsy Setting
More famous in men’s jewelry, gypsy setting consists of a band as one
continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. The top is shaped like a
dome and the stone is inserted in the middle.
The
Illusion Setting
This setting is more complex than others as it surrounds the stone to
make it appear larger. The metal that surrounds the stone usually has an
interesting design and should match the stone’s shade.
Channel Set Ring Setting
Channel setting is particularly popular in eternity bands and tennis
bracelets since it provides excellent protection to the diamonds. None
of the edges are exposed, so they are not subject to hard knocks or
general wear and tear. Some larger center diamonds are channel set in
the ring setting. This provides a clear view of the diamond from the two
exposed sides and excellent protection on the two channel sides.
Invisible Set Ring Setting
Invisible setting is the most elaborate type of setting in which the
stones seem to float in a grid or covering a surface with no metal
showing at all. Generally square or princess cut stones are used to
provide a continuous titled surface where each stone is carefully
trimmed to fit perfectly next to its neighbors. Then tiny grooves are
cut in the back of the stone, on its pavilion. The stones are held
together using a variety of techniques including: a network of wires,
pins, bars or plates trilled to fit the stones. Not all invisibly set
jewelry is built to last, so be cautious about bargain pieces. An
invisible set ring setting is very difficult to repair if a stone pops
out or breaks.
Since
invisible set stones are usually in group of stones, they are almost
never used for a center diamond. Since the diamond is actually cut with
a groove or drilled with a hole for invisible set fastening, this
damaging of an expensive center diamond is not recommended. There are
many other setting techniques that do not damage the diamond and should
be used for expensive stones.
Tension Setting
Tension set diamonds have the stunning visual effect of the diamond
floating in the ring with no support from below. The diamond is
basically pressed by the girdle on each side by the ends of the ring.
Each metal end has a small groove called the 'seat' into which a small
section of the girdle fits.
Tension set
rings are manufactured with special alloys by a sophisticated technique
which enables the metal to retain its memory. Depending on the style,
tension products have anywhere from 65 to 95 pounds pressure on center
stone. The precious metals are especially hardened and this is
accomplished by pressure or by thermal treatment. This special treatment
to the precious metal results in the precious metal having a certain
springiness which will grip the diamond without the necessity of a bezel
or claws.
Tension set
products are mostly made for round and princess cut diamonds (square).
Tension set products are also manufactured for marquise, pears, trillion
cut, radiant cut, and emerald cut diamonds.
Pave
Set Ring Setting
Significant surfaces of the ring setting can be covered or paved in
diamonds. The pave set style attempts to cover the surface with tiny
diamonds, creating what appears to be a coating of sparkling diamonds.
Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of
the ring shank. Pave set diamonds are usually very uniform in size,
evenly spaced and set in uniform rows. The more precisely cut the
diamonds, the better the ring setting will look when it is finished.
Brilliant
cut round diamonds are generally used for pave rings settings since they
provide the most sparkle. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits
of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of each
diamond, forming tiny beads to hold the diamond in place. The cost of
pave set ring settings is determined more by the bench time in setting
all those diamonds rather than the actual cost of the diamonds and
precious metal. As the pave technique has been improved over time, many
top end designers have gone to micro-pave which is pave setting using
very tiny diamonds under a microscope. The skill of the setter is the
key to the quality and final appearance of pave ring settings. Extremely
talented setters and a great amount of time produce works of art in the
pave rings settings.
Bead
Set Ring Setting
Bead set is similar to pave set, except that the diamonds tend to be a
little large and spaced a little farther apart. The beads holding each
diamond are a little larger and may even be engraved or decorated. On a
shank that does not taper across the top, each diamond would be the same
size. When there is a taper, the diamonds are often graduated with
larger stones in the wide area and smaller stones in the narrower areas.
By varying the size of the stones and the size of the beadwork, the ring
setting designer can create very unique looks.
Flush Set Ring Settings
Flush set diamonds are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly
level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the diamond and some
of the facets on the crown are exposed. While this technique does not
allow maximum light to enter the diamond, this subtle look has become
increasingly popular. The flush setting is also used for larger
diamonds. Because it provides considerable protection for the diamond
and allows the diamond to be set quite low on the finger, the flush
setting is popular for men's diamond ring settings.
Read about Diamond History, Diamond Facts..
A symbol of innocence, justice,
faith and strength, the diamond was believed to make its wearers
courageous and victorious over their enemies. When set in gold and worn
on the left side, it held the power to drive away nightmares and soothe
savage beasts. Diamonds were even thought to be so powerful that they
could stop lechery. Diamonds have lured and fascinated us....
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Information Summary...
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Diamond Ring Setting Types
